Hat-sewing machine.



No. 650,3l3. Patented May 22, I900. W. P. GAMMONS, .IR. & G. S. BRACHEB. HAT SEWING MACHINE.-

(Application filed Aug. 4, 1898. Renewed Oct. 28, 1899.) (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet l.

- Patent'e d May 22, I900. w. P. GAMYMONS, In.& (5. 8. BRACHEB. HAT SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 4, 1898. Renewed. Oct. 28, 1899.)

- 4 Shaets-Sheet 2.

(Nb Model.)

invert/09b 1%.. (4 3.; 046617: ey

"m: Noam; PETERS ca, Puo'ro-urna. WAsHxNGTon. u. g

No. 650,3I3. Patented May 22, I900. W. P. GAMMUNS, .IR. 8:. G. S. BRACHER. HAT SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Aug. 4, 1898. Renewed Oct. 28, 1899.) (No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 3.

III/ -m: norms pzvgns ca. PHOTO-Liffill. WASHINGTON. o. c.

No. 650,3l3. Patented May 22, I900. w. P. GAMMONS, 1n. &va. s. BRACHEB.

HAT SEWING MACHINE. (Application filed Aug. 4, 1598. Renewed Oct. 28, 1899.)

4 Sheets-Shaet 4,

(No Model.)

we Nomus PETERS 00.. PHOYD-UTHO., WASHINGTON, a. z;

UNITED STATES XVELOOME P. GAMMONS, JR, AND GEORGE S. BRACIIER, OF NINV YORK, N. Y-

. PATENT OFFICE.

HAT-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 650,313, dated May 522, 1900. Application filed August 4, 1898. Renewed October 28, 1899| Serial No. 735,128. flNo model.)

T0 at whom it may concern.-

Be it known that we, WELCOME I. Gate MONS, J r., and GEORGE S. BRACHER, citizens of the United States, residing at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Hat-SewingMachines, of which-the following is a specification.

Our invention relates to sewing-machines for attaching bindings to the curled or rolled brims of hats, and is designed more particularly as an improvement upon the machine disclosed in the Letters Patent granted to us under date of October 12, 1897, No. 591,754.

The general object of the present invention is to provide a sewing-machine constructed with a view of expeditiously attaching binding to the brims of those hats which are equipped with wires at the inner sides of their brims for the purpose of increasing the flexibility of the same.

With this end in view the invention will be fully understood from the following description and claims when taken in conjunction with the annexed drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a perspective view of a sewingmachine embodying our improvements. Fig. 2 is a detail longitudinal section, on an enlarged scale,of the-work-supportin g arm. Fig. 3 is a horizontal section taken in the plane indicated by the line 3 3 of Fig. 2. Fig. 4 is a detail perspective View of the plate which normally covers the shuttle-race. Fig. 5 isa detail perspective view of the gage. Fig. 6 is a similar view of the cam through the medium of which the gage is adjusted and held in its adjusted position. Fi 7 is a plan View of a portion of a hat-brim equipped with a wire and having its edge covered by binding, the same being shown simply for the purpose of impartinga clear understanding of the invention which resides in the machine. Figs. 8 and 9 are detail transverse sect-ions taken in the planesindicated by the lines 8 8 and 9 9, respectively, of Fig. 7, and showing the binding in the position it assumes before being turned over upon the brim. Fig. 10 is an inverted plan view of the machine on a reduced scale. Fig. 11 is a detail longitudinal section of the base portion of the machine. Fig. 12 is a transverse section taken in the planeindicated by the line 12 12 of Fig. 10. Fig. 18

is a detail section taken in the plane indicated by line 13 13 of Fig. 2. Fig. 14 is a perspective view of the bobbin removed from the shuttle. I Fig. 15 is a perspective View of the shuttle with the bobbin removed. Fig. 16 is a perspective view of the base or washer through the medium of which the shuttle is oscillated.

Referring by letter to said drawings, A is the machine-base, and B is an overhanging arm having a head 0 at its forward end, in which are arranged a needle-bar D, a presser bar E, having a foot a at its lower end, and a feed bar F. The needle-bar, presser-bar,and feed-bar are similar to those embodied in sew ing-machines at present in use, and the nee dle-bar and feed-bar are operated by a driv ing-shaft G through the medium of mechanism contained in the head 0, the needle-bar D being re'ciprocated verticallyand the feed bar F moved up and down and forward and backward to feed the materials forward. The mechanism through the medium of which the bars D and F are actuated is of the ordinary construction, and itis therefore not deemed necessary to illustrate the same.

H is a work-supporting arm which extends forwardly from the base A. It has the rear portion of its under side concave, as indicated by I, to accommodate the crown of a stifi hat to which the binding is being attached, and is made straight, flat, and comparatively thin at its forward end, which rests beneath the needle, feed, and presser bars for a purpose presently pointed out. ners of its upper side rounded or beveled at sharp angles which would tend to injure a hat-brim are presented to the brim as it is fed beneath the needle. The work supporting arm is further provided with a shuttle-race J. In this race is arranged a shuttle washer or base B, which is provided on its depending stem b with a pinion c, intermeshed with the T-rack d of a lever 0', whereby when the lever is rocked the base or washer will be oscillated. The washer is provided with the usual flange g and a spring-pressed lug g thereon, arranged to rest within a marginal and transmit oscillatory motion to the same.

The shuttle D has a thread hook or looper '5 its forward end, as indicated by b, so that no It also has the cor recess h of the shuttle or shuttle proper D i or less) points, whereby it is rendered resilicut and is adapted when thebobbin is placed upon it to exert a constant pressure against said bobbin, and thereby impose uniform tension on the thread irrespective of the quan-- tity of threadiuipon said bobbin, which isa highly-important advantage, since it obviates the liability o'f'breakage and at the same time renders the stitches even. The said split post E serves to securely hold the bobbin against casual upward movement in the shuttleand yet does not interfere with the ready removal of the bobbin when desired, such removal being efiected by passing a suitablein stru me-nt through one of the apertures m of the shuttle and pressing the bobbin upwardly until it can be grasped by the fingers of the operator. Y

The mechanism intermediate of the driveshaft G and the shuttle-base B forms an important part of our invention. Such mechanism. comprises the lever O, which is fulcrumed at a an uprightlever C", which is fulcrnmed to rock in a transverse plane and is pivotally connected at its lower end to the rear end of the lever O, and a cam G which is fixed on the drive-shaft G by a set-screw orother. suitable means and is arranged in a fork C at the upper end of the lever 0 ln-addition to affording a very easy and smooth motion in operation the said mechanism, intermediate of the drive -shaft and shuttle, is advantageous, because it permits the side flanges of said arm, so as not to oifer ofthehforward portion of the lever (1" being curved in conformity to the concavity I of the work-supporting arm and arranged between an obstruction to the crown of a hat placed in the concavity of the arm.

' arm H and normally covers the shuttle-race J. t r This plate L has a slot 0' extending in the direction of its width and receiving a threaded post d on the arm H, and it is designed to be adj ustably fixed in its position over the shuttie-race by a binding-nut e, mounted onsaid post (1', It is further provided, as best shown in Figs. 2 and. 4, with a hollow interiorly' forward end,forming an abutment for the hatbrim, and is provided with a longitudinal slot t", which receives the post f of coverplate L,- and a notch j in its,rear end receivin g the stud-stop g of said plate L. Said gage is also provided with a lug It, the same being L-is a platewhich rests on the upper fla side of the forward straight portion of the disposed in a radial slot '1 of a CZLIH'N, which is loosely mounted on the post f of plate L and is provided with a finger-piece or handle m, whereby it may be readily turned. The cam is seen red on the post f of the plate L by a screw 01, and a spring 19 is interposed between the head of said screw and the top of the cam and serves to press the camagainst the gage, and thereby assists in holding the gage against casual movement when a hatbri-m is pressed against the same. The notch j in gage M and the stud-stop gf of plate L serve in conjunction to hold the gage against lateral. movement, while the post f of the plate and the slot z" of-the gage serve to limit the endwise movement of the gage, for a purpose presently pointed out.

P is a needle-plate which is secured to the end of the work-supporting arm by screws or other suitable means. This plate, in addition to the usual needle-opening r, is provided with a recess or groove-s, which is formed in its upper side at its inner edge and is disposed in rear of the needle-opening with respect to the direction in which the materials are fed, as best shown in Fig. 2. Said recess 3 is designed, in conjunction with the recess f of the plate L, to form a groove or channel L for the reception of the hat-brim, as will be hereinafter fully pointed out. The needle-plate I is provided in'advance of the needle-opening, with respect to the direction of movement of the materials, with a recess a. (See Fig. 1.) Above the horizontal or bottom-wall of the said recess 10 is disposed the binding-guide Q, which has a depending tailpiece interposed and secured between the needle-plate and the end of thewo-rk-supporting arm.

Referring to Figs. 7, 8-,and 9, R isthe brim of a stiff hat, and-S isa wire with which the brim is provided in order to increase the flexibility of the same.' At the front and rear of the brim the Wire rests closely-adjacent to the edge of the same, as shown in Fig. 8, while at the sides of said brim the wire rests in the rolls or curls at a considerable distance from the edge, as shownin Fig. 9. This which connect the binding to the brim between the wire and the crown of the hat, at the front and rear of the brim and between the wire and the edges of the brim, at the sides of said brim, The manner in whichthis 'i's done will be clearly understood from the following: I

In the practical operation of .the machine the gage M is set back as far as possible from the forward end of the work-supporting arm and the binding is placed in the guide Q, so that its upper portion overlaps the forward end of the work-supporting arm, as shown by dotted lines in Fig. 1. The rear end of the brim of the hat is then placed upon the end of the arm-over the binding and its edge is erator when the machine is started and the renders it necessary to arrange the stitches.

pressed hard against the gage M by the opstitching of the binding is commenced at the point marked 1 (see Fig. 7) and continued until the point marked 2 is reached, with the result that the stitches will be between the wire S and the crown of the hat, asplainly shown in Fig. 7. When the point marked 2 is reached, the machine is stopped and the gage is moved as far as possible forwardly through the medium of the cam N, after which the machine is started and the stitching continued to the point marked 3, when the machine is again stopped. These latter stitches, by reason of the edge of the brim having been moved forward by the gage, will lie between the wire and the edge of the brim and'quite close to said edge. At the point 3 the gage is moved back as far as possible or to its initial position and the machine is started and the stitching continued to the point marked 4, the stitches thus formed lying between the wire S and the crown of the hat. machine is again stopped and the gage is thrown forwardly as far as possible, after 5 which the machine is started and the stitching continued to the point marked 5, the stitches lying between the wire and the edge of the brim. At the point 5 the machine is again stopped and the gage moved back as far as possible, after which the stitching is resumed until the point 1-6. a. the point of comn1encementis reached, these latter stitches lying between the wire andthe crown of the hat. While the stitching of the binding to the back end portion of the brim is going on the hat rests or is held with the crown depending; but as the stitching progresses toward and along the side of the brim the hat must be gradually turned until the crown rests in a horizontal or approximately horizontal position with the inside of the hat toward the operator and the crown in the concavity of arm H, and as the stitching further progresses the hat must be turned so that when it reaches the end of the brim opposite to the point of commencement it will rest in the first-mentioned position-viz. with its crown depending. From this point the operation is repeated to the point of commencement. After the piece of binding has been attached along one edge and throughout its length to the inner side of the brim it is then turned over the brim. When thus turned over the brim, the binding will cover and hide the wire at the opposite ends of the" brim. During the stitching of the binding from the point 2 to the point 3 and from the point 4 to the point 5 the edge of the brim will be seated in the groove or channel L,

formed by the recess f of plate L and the re cess s of the needle-plate, which will hold it against being forced out of its proper position by the strokes of the needle.

By reason of the construction of the gage and the cam for operating the same the changes in the position of the hat-brim with respect to the path of the needle at the points When the point 4 is reached, the

of the construction and relative arrangement;

of the parts of our improvements in order to impart a full, clear, and exact understanding of thesame. e do not desire, however, to be understood as confining ourselves to such specific construction and arrangement of parts,

in practice as fairly fallwithin' the scope of our invention. \Ve also desire it to be understood thatwhile the machine is designed more particularly for attaching binding to the 'brims of those hats which are equipped withwires at the inner sides of their brims it may be used to advantage in attaching binding to I the brims of hats which are not provided with wires.

1 we claim is- 1. A hat-sewing machine comprising a Having thus described ourinvention, whatas such changes or modifications may be made work-supporthaving a fiat portion at its for 'ward end and a concavity at its under side :in rear of said flat portion and also having aneedle-opening in its flat portion, an open groove or channel arranged in the line of feed ed to receive the edge of a hat-brim, and a binding-guide arranged in the line of feed.

2. A hat-sewing machine comprising a work-supporting arm having a flat portion at its forward end and a concavity in its under side in rear of said flat portion and also having a needle-opening in its flat portion and a hat-guide and a binding-guide arranged the latter in advance and the other in the rear of the needle-opening, a hat-gage arranged on the fiat portion of the arm, means for moving said gage forwardly and backwardly, a stop for limiting the forward and backward movements of the gage, and a suitable organized stitch-forming mechanism, substantially as specified.

3. A hat sewing machine comprising a work-supporting arm having a flat portion at its forward end and a concavity in its under side in rear of said flat portion, a needle-plate connected to the end of the arm and having a needle-opening and a recess in rear of said opening, a horizontal plate arranged on the arm and having a recess serving in conjunction with the recess of the needle-plate to form a hat-guide in rear of the needle-opening, an adjustable hat-gage arranged on said plate, a binding-guide arranged in advance of the opening of the needle-plate and having a tailpiece interposed between the needleplate and the end of the arm, and a suitable organized stitch forming mechanism, substantially as specified.

and in rear of the needle-opening and adapt- ---4. A hat-sewing machine comprising a work-support having a flat portion at itsforward end and a concavity at'its under side in rear of said flat portion and also havln g a nee-l die-opening and a hat-guide and. a bindinga guide arranged the latter in advance and the otherin the rearof the needle-opening, a hata gage arranged upon the flat portion ofthe work-support, and asuitable organized-stitchforming mechanism,substantially as speci fied. l

5. A hat-sewing machine comprising.v work-supporting arm having a flat portion at i its forward end and a race in said fiat portion designed to receive a loop-taker forming part of an organized stitch-forming mechanism, a needle-plate connected to the end of the arm and having a needle-opening and also having a recess 8 in rear of said opening, a bindingguide arranged in advance of the opening, a

cover-plate arranged on the arm over the race therein and having a post with a threaded socket in its upper end and also having arecess f serving in conjunction with the recess 8 of the needle-plate to forma guideway for a hat-brim,'a hat-gage having a slot receiving the post of the cover-plate'and also having a lug, an oscillatory cam arranged on the post and having a slot receiving the lug of the gage, a screw taking into the socket of the post, and a spring interposed between the head of the screw and the cam, substantially as specified.

6. In a hat-sewing machine, the combina-v tion of a work-supporting arm, a post rising therefrom and having a threaded socket in its upper end, a hat-gage having a slot receiving the postand also having a lug, an oscillatory cam mountedyon the post and having a 'radialslot receiving the lug of 'the gage, a screw taking into the socket of the post, and a spring interposed between the head of said screw and the cam, substantially as specified.

7. In a sewing-machine, the combination of a work-supporting arm, a needle-plate connected to the end of said arm and having a needles-opening and a recess 8 in rear of said needle-openin g and a shoulder u in advance I of the same, a binding-guide arranged in advance of the shoulder and having a" tailpiece interposed and secured between the 'needleplate and the arm, a horizontal plate arranged on thearm and having a recess f serving in conjunction with the recess s of the heedletially as specified.

.In testimony whereof we have hereunto set our hands in presence of two subscribing witnesses. V

' 7 WELCOME P. GAMMONS, JR.

. GEORGE S. BRAOHER. Witnesses:

W. T. KUNKEL, GEO. S; OVERTON. 

